If you ask where to go in Korea after Seoul, Hyeyeon's first answer was Busan. We spent a day in Busan with Arda Pazır and Hyeyeon: in the morning, we traveled over the sea in a cable car with a glass floor, in the afternoon we entered the back alleys of Gamcheon, known as the "favela of Korea," and in the evening we sat at a stall in the fish market and tried the eel that the Koreans cook live. In this article, while telling you about that day, I also share what to see in Busan in a day, what you need to know when going to Gamcheon Culture Village, and what awaits you at the fish market.
Watch the Video: The Back Alleys of Busan
Where to go in Korea outside of Seoul? Why Busan?
In the cable car, I asked Hyeyeon a simple question: for someone coming to Korea for the first time, where should they absolutely see outside of Seoul? Her answer, without a second thought, was Busan. She listed two reasons. First, the United Nations Memorial Cemetery is here. This place, where Turkish soldiers who lost their lives in the Korean War also lie, carries a special meaning for Turks. Second, the sea. There is no sea in Seoul; if you want a beach vacation in Korea, Busan is where you go.
According to Hyeyeon, the climate in Busan is also milder than in Seoul: it doesn't get as cold in winter or as hot in summer. When I asked her when is the best time to go to Korea, her answer was the same as for Turkey: spring and autumn.
Songdo Marine Cable Car: The Sea Under Your Feet
We started the day on the west side of Busan with a cable car crossing over the sea to an island. When choosing a cabin, we picked the "crystal" one with a glass floor. You see everything below: the sea, the beach. They handed out lollipops while we were in line, and inside the cabin, everyone asked each other, "Were you scared?" According to Hyeyeon, the cable car was built a long time ago and then reconstructed in a modern way, so it is safe.
The beach you see when looking down from the cabin is, in Hyeyeon's words, Korea's first public beach. Those who wish can get off at a point along the way and walk on the red walkway extending over the sea. As far as I can see, this place is quite touristy, but the view is really beautiful. It is one of the first spots you can come and see after the Busan station.
Dragon Island and the Dragon Turned into a Turtle
There is a park on the side where the cable car arrives. Dinosaur statues that move with sensors, strange exercise equipment that spins, and a story in every corner. The plaques were written in many languages; the one in Turkish said "be rich and be happy." We learned that this place is called Dragon Island.
We learned the story right there: A dragon used to live on the island. Sometimes it would take human form and mingle with the people. One day it fell in love with a girl but couldn't be with her. Saddened by this, it withdrew into its shell and turned into a turtle. There was also a mermaid among the statues, so there might be a version of the story slightly different from what we understood. The point Arda got stuck on is clear: "It's fine for a dragon to turn into a human, but why a turtle?" If you go, read the plaque carefully, don't leave it to us.
Songdo Beach and the Koreans' Love for Kaymak
We went down from the park to the beach. People were swimming. We chatted here with a few university students from Busan studying electronic engineering. According to what they said, the official swimming season at the beaches is from July to the end of August; you need to pay attention to the rules if you swim out of season.
The most surprising part of the conversation was about kaymak (clotted cream). A Korean television personality came to Turkey, ate kaymak, and said, "This must have come from heaven." After that, kaymak suddenly became popular in Korea. But there are no water buffalo in Korea, so it's very hard to find the taste of real kaymak here. Don't be surprised if you encounter Koreans whose eyes light up when they hear "honey and kaymak."
Are the People of Busan Tense?
Arda was coming to Busan for the first time and honestly shared his first impression: from the taxi driver to the street vendors, people seemed a bit tense to him, as if they were always rushing somewhere. No one was rude; on the contrary, everyone was polite, but there was a hurried atmosphere focused on strictly applying the rules.
Hyeyeon's comment opened a different window. Busan has its own unique accent, and to someone from Seoul, this accent can sound harsh, even angry. She explained that even when her own brother talks to his friends from Busan, an outsider might ask, "Why are you fighting?" According to her, people from Busan are warm and good, it's just their way of speaking that is different. Later in the day, the Turkish travelers we met at the fish market said exactly the opposite: they found Busan warmer and cuter than Seoul. So, don't make a decision based on a single impression.
Gamcheon Culture Village: Korea's Old Favela
We took a taxi from the beach to Gamcheon. Colorful houses built on top of each other, climbing up the mountainside... When I first saw it, I said, "We're in Rio," then, "We're in Bolivia." A shanty town facing the sea. According to Hyeyeon, people took refuge here during the Korean War and built their own houses on this slope. Today, the neighborhood has been turned into a touristy culture village.
Behind the Touristy Street
On the main touristy street, there are cafes, artists drawing caricatures, visitors wearing hanbok to take pictures, and Little Prince figures in every corner. But once you take a step away from the main street, you see its old state. Some of the old passageways have been closed off so tourists don't enter. Rotten stairs, makeshift balconies, laundry hanging from windows, an uncle cleaning fish in front of his house, a man sleeping inside. People still live here.
Through Hyeyeon, we talked to an elderly couple sitting in front of their house. They came here after the war, and they spent their lives here. They said the neighborhood wasn't dangerous for the locals even in the past, and that life has only become difficult now because of the tourist crowds. According to them, only some people live here now, and there are many empty houses. Since they are homeowners, they don't have to worry about rent. On the wall right behind the elderly couple were BTS posters. It was like seeing the generation gap in Korea in a single frame.
While visiting Gamcheon, keep this in mind: most of these houses are truly someone's home. Even if the doors are open, don't go inside; ask for permission before holding a camera in people's faces, and be quiet. There are cameras and a small police box in the neighborhood; even the box had Little Prince and flower motifs on it. They have placed outdoor exercise equipment in every corner for the elderly.
Dragon-Torched Ice Cream and Cats
On the main street, there was a stall that caramelizes marshmallow containing ice cream with a blowtorch shaped like a dragon. Caramelized on the outside, cold on the inside. Not bad, but don't keep your expectations high. Also, it was full of cats everywhere. Arda's theory: "They must have let them loose after seeing our Istanbul." The streets are steep and have stairs; go with comfortable shoes.
A Lesson in Passports at the Currency Exchange Machine
We found an automatic currency exchange machine in the neighborhood. At the time we were filming the video, the machine gave around 1,575 won for 1 euro, which is a bit worse than the rate in the city center. But two problems arose: the machine required a passport and I didn't have mine with me, so we processed it with Hyeyeon's ID. Then, it didn't accept the 200 euro banknote. If you are going to use a currency machine in Korea, carry your passport with you and take small banknotes.
Busan Fish Market: Live-Cooked Eel
In the late afternoon, we entered the fish market. The stalls were starting to close, but it was still busy inside. Giant squids, king crabs, dried fish, a sea creature called "mongge." Hyeyeon laughed: in Korea, calling someone "like a mongge" means they are ugly. I also learned here that instead of frying small fish like our anchovies, Koreans dry them and eat them like snacks.
We suddenly saw about 20 Turks in the market. We chatted with two Turkish travelers who recognized us; it was their first time in Busan, and they found it warmer than Seoul.
What's on the Grill
Then we sat at a stall to try Hyeyeon's favorite food. The aunt at the stall skinned the animal and put it directly onto the grill on the table. And the animal continued to move on the grill. Meanwhile, blood splattered on me. Hyeyeon explained that these are the last movements left in the muscles after death and that the animal doesn't feel pain. You know it logically, but watching it is something else. Neither Arda nor I could look at the table for a while.
In the end, we said, "We sat down, we're going to eat it." I ate a few pieces with soy sauce. It wasn't as soft as I thought; it had a tough and chewy texture. The flavor wasn't bad, but after that sight, I lost my appetite. Hyeyeon finished most of the plate.
A note: In the video, we called this animal an eel because Koreans and menus translate it that way. The "kkomjangeo" grilled in this way in Busan is scientifically not an eel; it is most likely a species called hagfish. That sticky, silk-like secretion we saw while it was cooking is the defense mechanism of this species.
The Story of the Charcoal Stove on the Table
There is also a story behind the cylindrical perforated charcoal burning on the grill on the table. According to Hyeyeon, this charcoal is from the war era; because it was cheap, it was also used in homes for heating. But because it emitted carbon monoxide in closed spaces, poisonings used to occur. Today it is used in a safer way; still, if you are going to sit next to a charcoal grill in a closed space for a long time, pay attention to ventilation.
Busan Street Food and Desserts
After the eel, what saved me was a meat fry we ate on the street. They coat thinly sliced meat first in flour, then in egg, and cook it in a pan. It's the reverse sequence of our schnitzel. From the outside, it looks like a gözleme with minced meat, and the meat taste is dominant. It cooked in two minutes and was very delicious. They said the price was around 6,000 won. In Arda's words, "Oğuz was almost about to become a vegetarian, he returned at the last minute."
There are people selling chestnuts on the streets like we have. At the stall where the region's most famous dessert is sold, they usually add peanuts, but here they also add hazelnuts. We also saw a cotton candy machine with robot arms: for 5,000 won, which is about 3 dollars, it turns sugar into a pink cotton candy in the shape of a flower. It's very fun for children.
At the end of the day, we also passed through one of the entertainment streets on the harbor side. Here, Arda told the story of television programs in Korea that tell about the children of Filipino mothers and Korean fathers, known as "Kopino" in Korea, and their search for their fathers. Another reality behind the touristy face of Korea.
One Day in Busan: Practical Guide
1. Recommended One-Day Itinerary
| Time | Place | What to do | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Morning | Songdo Marine Cable Car and beach | Crossing over the sea with a glass-bottom cabin, park and walkway | Quieter on weekday mornings |
| Afternoon | Gamcheon Culture Village | Colorful houses, cafes, back alleys | Steep slopes, comfortable shoes; respect the houses |
| Late Afternoon | Fish market | Seafood, eating at a stall | Stalls start to close in the late afternoon |
| Evening | Street food | Meat fry, chestnuts, desserts | Keep cash in won with you |
These three areas are close to each other; you can travel between them in a short time by taxi. We used taxis all day. I explained how to plan your trip to Korea from start to finish in my travel planning guide.
2. Money and Payment
- Currency machines require a passport and may not accept large banknotes.
- The rate of the machine in Gamcheon was worse than in the city center; exchange in the center if possible.
- Having small cash makes things easier at the market and street stalls.
3. Prices (At the Time We Filmed the Video)
- Robot cotton candy: 5,000 won (about 3 dollars)
- Meat fry on the street: about 6,000 won
- 1 euro in currency machine: about 1,575 won
Prices and rates change; check the current status.
4. Internet
Mobile internet is very useful in Korea for calling taxis, finding back alleys on the map, and translating menus. You can check out Yırtık eSIM's South Korea packages here.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where to go in Korea outside of Seoul?
The first recommendation of my friend Hyeyeon, who knows Korea, is Busan. The sea, beaches, and the UN Memorial Cemetery, where Turkish soldiers also lie, make Busan stand out especially for Turkish travelers.
Is Gamcheon Culture Village safe?
Yes. Today it is a touristy neighborhood; there are cameras and a police box. However, people still live here, so don't enter houses and don't film anyone without asking for permission.
What is the best season to go to Korea?
Spring and autumn. Busan's climate is milder than Seoul's; its winter is less cold, its summer less hot.
Is the "eel" we ate in Busan really an eel?
It is translated as such on menus, but the kkomjangeo grilled live is most likely a separate species called hagfish. The fact that it moves while cooking is just the final reflexes in the muscles.
What is required to use a currency machine in Korea?
A passport. The machine we used did not process transactions without a passport and did not accept the 200 euro banknote.
In my previous article, I described the Georgia stage of my walk from Turkey to Mongolia: Walking from Tbilisi to the Azerbaijan border. If you are curious about our experiences in Hong Kong with Hyeyeon before, you can check out my article Living cheaply in Hong Kong. I will describe the other places we saw in Busan in my next articles.
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