On the 34th, 35th, and 36th days of my walk from Turkey to Mongolia, I walked the final stages in Georgia: from Mtskheta to the center of Tbilisi, from Tbilisi to Rustavi, and from Rustavi to the Red Bridge border road leading to Azerbaijan. Over these three days, I met Turkish truck drivers on the road, was invited to a birthday table at a restaurant where I had been left at the door in the rain, and found myself in the middle of a firing range in the steppe where I had taken a shortcut to the border. In this post, as I describe those days, I also share how to get from Tbilisi to the Azerbaijan border, what you should watch out for on the road, and what the situation was like at the Georgia-Azerbaijan land border.
Watch the Video: Day 34, From Mtskheta to Tbilisi
Day 34: From the Old Capital Mtskheta to the Center of Tbilisi
In the previous stage, I had walked 30 kilometers to the outskirts of Tbilisi and returned to the house I rented by taxi because of fatigue. I rested for a week, eating and drinking. I had eaten so much that I saw 98 kilograms on the scale. This morning, I set out to return to the same point and complete the remaining part by walking. I had an easy day ahead of me, about 20 kilometers.
At the beginning of the road is Mtskheta. This is the historic capital of Georgia. It is a sheltered little place surrounded by mountains and rivers. According to what is told, Georgians used to live here, and when the population increased, they moved to Tbilisi, which is a more spacious place. The old church on the hill and the old settlement on the opposite bank look beautiful even from the side of the road. There were a lot of tourists on the hill. Mtskheta is about 20 minutes away from Tbilisi by car. If you are staying in Tbilisi, it is worth going for half a day.
Turkish Truck Drivers at a Police Checkpoint
A Turkish truck had been pulled over by police on the road. I went to say hello, and the drivers recognized me from my videos. They had watched my videos the night before and said, "Hopefully we'll see you on the way to Tbilisi." They had received a small fine, a few dollars per person, for missing the highway and entering the old road. If the police had stopped them 5 minutes further down, we wouldn't have met. One of my favorite things about this journey is these coincidences.
The Cloths on the Branches Were Not Wishes
Since the Black Sea, I had been seeing cloths tied to tree branches and thought they were "wish rags." On the road to Tbilisi, when I saw a contraption with a strange liquid inside, I asked. It turned out these were traps set for brown marmorated stink bugs. This bug is a major nuisance for the Black Sea and Georgia. The traps spread a scent to attract the bugs.
Entering Tbilisi: Cave Houses, Malls, and a Huge Döner
As I approached the Tbilisi sign, I saw cavities in the rocks on the hills that reminded me of Cappadocia. It was clear that people had lived there in the past. At the entrance to the city, there is a huge mall that also includes Turkish brands like Koton. The temperature was 15 degrees, and it had started to drizzle. At the place where I took a break, I ate a giant döner; it cost around 7 dollars and kept me full until the evening.
As I entered the city, I saw Lamborghini, Bentley, and Porsche dealerships, and rows of walnut sausages hung up to dry. I couldn't remember the name in the video; the correct name is churchkhela. It is made from walnuts dipped in grape must. "Chacha," which came to mind, is the Georgians' grape brandy.
At 4 o'clock, the traffic was very heavy. I said in the video that the population of Tbilisi was 1.5 million; official figures are around 1.2-1.3 million. Still, more than a third of Georgia's 3.7 million population lives in the capital. When I had to cross the six-lane road on Heydar Aliyev Avenue, I couldn't find an underpass or a pedestrian crossing. Don't do this; if you are going to walk in these parts of Tbilisi that connect to the highway, plan your route in advance according to pedestrian crossings.
When I arrived home in the evening, I got on that old Soviet elevator that works when you insert a coin. The house inside the building, which was entirely Soviet on the outside, was spotless. I had paid 250 dollars for a one-week stay. I set aside 1,000 dollars a month for accommodation during my walk, and this fit that budget. At the end of the day, I had walked about 20 kilometers and completed the path to Tbilisi completely.
Watch the Video: Day 35, From Tbilisi to Rustavi
Day 35: 30 Kilometers from Tbilisi to Rustavi
Before setting off, I bought new socks, a long-sleeved base layer, and a neck warmer, totaling 120 dollars. Then I started walking towards Rustavi through the city center. By the way, don't get confused: Rustaveli is the name of Tbilisi's most touristic street. Rustavi is a separate city about 30 kilometers southeast of Tbilisi, on the road to the Azerbaijan border.
What I Saw While Walking in Tbilisi
On Rustaveli Avenue, there were flags and people waiting in front of an official building. At that time, there were protests regarding the elections, and hundreds of people gathered there every evening. Just ahead is Freedom Square, the most well-known square in the city; I suggest you check out the tiny shops in its underpass. In the old city, churches, bridges, and old mosques are side by side. There is also a park and an avenue named after Heydar Aliyev. Many Azerbaijan Turks who remained on these lands when the borders were drawn in Georgia live here.
In Tbilisi, I met a Georgian woman working as a tour guide who spoke Turkish almost better than me. She showed me around the city for two days, took me to a local restaurant where Georgian dances were performed, and didn't let me pay the bill. She showed me Georgian hospitality firsthand.
Rustavi Road: A Beautiful Route for Walking
Exiting Tbilisi is a bit complicated; you have to pass under highways and through junctions. But once you get out of the city, things get easier. They have built a smooth walking path that goes along the side of the river, in the middle of the main road to Azerbaijan. The weather was 20 degrees, and there were storks, cormorants, and seagulls in the river. Under a bridge, 20 people were fishing. I also saw Tesla taxis working for Bolt on the road.
A Turkish driver stopped on the road to say hello. He said he lived on the border, gave me his number, and said, "You'll pass, it won't be a problem." However, when we messaged in the evening, he said he learned that no one could pass the border. As I approached Rustavi, the names on the signs started to become Turkified.
Being Left at the Door in the Rain and Then Invited to the Table
I entered a restaurant at the entrance of Rustavi. There was a birthday party for 50 people inside, and the woman working there didn't let me in; she sat me at a table outside in the rain. Half of the tables were empty. I was very upset. Then one of the men at the celebration noticed the situation, had my bag carried inside, and invited me to their table. We ate and chatted. I paid for my soup myself; it was 17 lari with water, about 6 dollars. The lesson I learned is this: a rude employee doesn't represent a country. In the same hall, there were those who left me outside and those who invited me in.
But that conversation cost me more than an hour, and I was left in the dark. I walked the last part along the side of the highway. I crossed to the other side of the road so the cars could see me. I settled into a clean guesthouse in Rustavi for 25 dollars a night. At the end of the day, I had walked 29.6 kilometers, and the bottom of my brand-new sock had been torn.
Watch the Video: Day 36, From Rustavi to the Border Road
Day 36: Steppe, Gunshots, and Shepherd Dogs on the Red Bridge Road
I left Rustavi at 8 a.m. on Sunday morning. I really liked Rustavi: it is an old Soviet city built on a plain, but its parks are well-maintained and full of people doing morning exercises or training their dogs. While having coffee at a fast-food shop where a robot served, I looked at Tbilisi-Baku flight tickets. If I couldn't cross the border, I would buy a ticket in the evening. When I checked before, it was around 170 dollars.
By the way, I lost another toenail. Three nails in three months. This happens with long toes that constantly hit the tip of the shoe; if you're going on a long walk, consider buying your shoes one size larger.
The Road I Took as a Shortcut
The map showed a dirt road passing through the hills where the highway made a long curve. It would have shortened the trip by 5-6 kilometers. I entered the road, my phone stopped getting reception, and the road gradually disappeared into the grass. A sound like metal being struck was coming from afar. When I got closer, I understood: two men had put a target in the middle of the steppe and were shooting. When they saw me, they waved, asking me not to go from the side where the targets were but from the right. They also told me there were shepherd dogs protecting the herd ahead and that I shouldn't continue on that path.
I didn't give up and climbed the hill with gunshots coming from behind me. I descended the hill through thorns, my knees shaking. I wore my long pants so the thorns wouldn't prick me. At one point, a fox jumping out in front of me scared me to death. I saw the shepherd dogs from a distance on the other side of the road; I escaped diagonally before they saw me and finally reached the main road. Turkish trucks passing by honked to say hello.
To be honest: this shortcut didn't gain me anything. When I looked at the map, if I had taken the long way, I would have been at the same place at the same time. Moreover, I was in a border area, in a terrain where my phone didn't work and I didn't know what anyone was doing. I do not recommend you enter dirt roads on the map in areas close to the border. Do not leave the main road.
The Samurai Wasp Story
The stink bug is everywhere in this region too. When I went to a stand in the Black Sea and asked about the fight against them, they explained two methods: releasing samurai wasps and spraying pesticides. The samurai wasp is a tiny insect as small as a louse and prevents the stink bug from multiplying by parasitizing its eggs. They said they usually use both at the same time. I asked, "Does that tiny wasp survive the pesticide that can't kill a giant stink bug?" They said, "I guess it dies, let me check this." In short, the bug has spread so much that fighting it is difficult.
This part of the video ends with me reaching the main road and taking a break at a market in a small town. I still had a 4.5-hour walk ahead of me, and I would arrive at the border as it was getting dark. I will explain whether I could cross the border in the next part.
From Tbilisi to the Azerbaijan Border: Practical Information
1. Route and Distances
| Day | Stage | Distance | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| 34 | Mtskheta - Tbilisi center | approx. 20 km | Easy, traffic and highway junctions as you enter the city |
| 35 | Tbilisi - Rustavi | 29.6 km | Riverside walking path, last part along the highway |
| 36 | Rustavi - Red Bridge border road | approx. 33-36 km (total) | Steppe, areas without phone reception, truck traffic |
2. Is the Georgia-Azerbaijan Land Border Open?
Red Bridge is the busiest border crossing between Georgia and Azerbaijan. At the time I filmed the video, the situation was as follows: Azerbaijan had closed its land borders for entry during the Covid period, and this decision was being extended. Exit from Azerbaijan and freight transport by trucks were allowed, but entry as a passenger from Georgia was closed. An owner of a transport company I met in Batumi told me that it was only possible to pass with a truck driver's license and as a truck driver. Everyone on the road was saying something different. That's why I decided to see it with my own eyes. You, too, should check the current information from official Azerbaijani sources, not what you hear.
If the land border is closed, the most practical way is to fly from Tbilisi to Baku. This was my backup plan: to fly to Baku and return to the Azerbaijani side of the border by bus and continue the walk from where I left off. I explained how I find cheap flight tickets in my cheap flight ticket guide.
3. Prices (At the Time of Filming)
- A house for one week in Tbilisi: 250 dollars
- Guesthouse in Rustavi: 25 dollars per night
- A large döner at the entrance of Tbilisi: approx. 7 dollars
- Soup and water at a restaurant: 17 lari, approx. 6 dollars
- Tbilisi-Baku flight ticket: approx. 170 dollars (the price I saw on that date)
Prices and exchange rates change; check the current situation. You can find ways to stay cheaper in my budget accommodation guide.
4. Internet and Communication
After Rustavi, as I approached the border, my phone stopped getting reception. Download the map offline in advance and let someone know where you are walking. In cities in Georgia, mobile internet is a must to use applications like Bolt. You can check out Yırtık eSIM's Georgia packages here.
5. Safety
In deserted terrains in the border region, you may encounter shepherd dogs, snakes, and people shooting. Do not leave the main road, plan to arrive at where you will stay before dark, and walk on the side of the highway where vehicles can see you.
Frequently Asked Questions
How to get from Tbilisi to the Azerbaijan border?
The busiest gate is Red Bridge. It is reached via the main road going from Tbilisi through Rustavi. I went by walking from Tbilisi to Rustavi in one day and from Rustavi to the border road in one day. It takes much less time by car or taxi; check current minibus and taxi options before setting off.
Is it possible to cross from Georgia to Azerbaijan by land?
At the time I filmed the video, Azerbaijani land borders were closed to passenger entry; only exit and freight transport were allowed. This rule can change; check official sources before making plans.
Where is Rustavi, is it the same place as Rustaveli?
No. Rustaveli is Tbilisi's most famous street. Rustavi is a separate city about 30 kilometers southeast of Tbilisi, on the road to the Azerbaijan border.
How far is Mtskheta from Tbilisi?
About 20 minutes by car. Walking, I arrived at the center in 5-6 hours.
Is accommodation in Tbilisi expensive?
In my experience, no. I paid 250 dollars for a week for a renovated house in an old Soviet building near the center.
In my previous post, I described how I walked from Gori to Tbilisi: Traveling from Gori to Tbilisi by walking. You can also take a look at my Batumi travel guide for entering Georgia. I will describe what happened when I arrived at the Red Bridge border and whether I could cross into Azerbaijan in my next post.
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